The trawlers which still follow a traditional pattern, staying out for one to two nights and landing their fish in the early morning, bring back about 500 tons of fish

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every year. The total annual yield from the seas around Cyprus is 2,800 tons, valued at about 19 million. And this does not include the production of fish from fish farming which is currently about 700 tons and valued at 13 million.

The east Mediterranean's productivity is dependent on the sparse nutrients brought to the area from the west Mediterranean and the central Atlantic. The few rivers that feed the area with some nutrients have now been mostly dammed, though even with their past contribution the yield was never more than poor. The other side of the coin, however, is brighter-the low productivity has its merits as it makes the east Mediterranean one of the world's clearest and "bluest" seas.

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The local trawl fishing grounds produce to a large extent Pickerel (Marida) and the fish caught by Cypriot trawlermen are traditional]y the cheaper fish on the mar- ket. Today eight trawlers are licensed to fish in Cyprus waters while they and another seven vessels also trawl in international waters, mainly in the east Mediterranean. This involves fishing trips lasting about a week, finally landing an additional 400 tons of fish. For higher quality, more expensive fish that meet the needs of hotels and restaurants in particular, the inshore, artisan fisherman comes into his own. His technique involves a variety of bottom-set nets and long-lining, traditionally carried out at depths of up to and sometimes more than 100 fathoms. The inshore fisherman goes out at night and is usually fishing at dawn, a picturesque sight as the sun rises.

He has to obey the rules. Among other restrictions, fishing with nets is not allowed in the summer in waters shallower than 10 metres and nets are not allowed on the seabed during certain hours of the day.

The results of his night-time deep water fishing are found on many a menu. The main species are Boque (Voppa), Red Mullets (Barbouni and Strillia), White Bream (Sorgos), Pandora (Lithrini), Common Bream (Fangri), Dentex (Synagrida) and a large variety of other fish. Octopus, squid and ctlttlefish are commonly caught too. Swordfish demand something special and about 30 swordfish boats bring in a catch of some 150 tons per year.

Today. about 500 inshore boats are licensed to fish in Cyprus and about anothcr 2,000 fishermen are active, with limited gear, on a "sport" fishing basis.

It wasn't always like that.